It's true what they say about Reyjavik. It is the most intimate and eccentric of capital cities, a place of strong coffee and later risers.

The rain and clouds come and go, shielding and then revealing the distant ranges. This view is looking north from the ring road that encircles the city, running by the harbor. The harbor's working boats seem primarily oriented toward the tourist trade, with a dozen or more whale-watching ships peddling their services.